Let's talk potty training! This can be a very frustrating topic for some, but we hope that these tips we share with you will be helpful. Training is a positive process with a specific behavioral goal in mind, in this  case, the goal of having your dog eliminate in a designated place. If you don't read anything else on this page, remember this: Consistency, consistency, consistency is key!!

Potty training problems are common. It isn't just the unsocialized introvert puppy eliminating improperly due to separation anxiety, or  the backyard dog who moves indoors during the snowstorm. Dogs who are otherwise well-adjusted, delightful companions, many of them quite obedient, perhaps even graduates of obedience training programs, frequently exhibit untrustworthy behavior when it comes to  potty training reliability.

Potty training problems cause many dogs to end up in shelters. Improper elimination, or failed potty training, is one of the most frustrating and dangerous behavior problems exhibited by our dog friends. Frustrating, because if your dog is routinely soiling your home and you don't know how to stop him, you are going to be frustrated indeed. Dangerous, because it is among the most commonly cited behavior problems that cause dogs to be surrendered to animal shelters and humane societies.

So, how do I choose the right potty training methods for my needs? There is a lot of information available about potty training. This is a common topic in books and magazines, on videos, CD-ROMs, and even on the Internet. Yet, with all of this information available, the problems remain. Sometimes the methods outlined in the various media don't work because they are too general, leaving out important details in an attempt to appeal to too broad an audience. Conversely, some methods are too rigid and unrealistic, proposing regimens that do not fit in today's lifestyles. Worst of all, many times the information is conflicting, and dog owners are left wondering which method is "right" for them.

Three things you need to know about dog behavior:

• Dogs are denning animals 
  Even though dogs are domesticated animals and their lives as pets are quite different from the conditions they would be experiencing "in the wild," dogs have retained certain natural instincts that dog owners need to know about in order to make potty training successful. You don't have to be a dog expert to put your dog's natural behaviors to work for you. Many dog owners have heard this before, usually in relation to kennel training. But even if you have no intention of kennel training your dog, this behavioral fact is still important for you to know.

Dog will try to eliminate outside of their den. When we say that dogs are naturally denning animals, we mean that their natural tendency is to sleep in a den. The den could be anything from a hole in the ground or a cave in the hills, to a couch in the living room or a kennel in the kitchen. The reason it is important for you to know that dogs are denning animals is because as a part of their denning behavior, dogs have a natural tendency to relieve themselves away from the den. You can use this knowledge to your advantage whether you want your dog  to always eliminate in a designated area in the house, on paper or potty training pads, for example.

• Dogs are pack animals 

Dogs like to live in packs. The pack leader sets the rules for the rest of the pack. The second thing you need to know about dog behavior is that dogs are naturally pack animals. When we say that dogs are pack animals, we mean that their natural tendency is to live in packs or family groups. Pack animals have a well-defined social structure, which you can think of as their rules for living together and maintaining stability within the group. Dogs are not people, so it is unrealistic to expect our dogs to relate to us in human terms. Likewise, everything that we as people do with our dogs, they interpret into terms that they can understand from their canine perspective. That is important for you to know, because you can influence or control many of your dog's behaviors just by understanding how he/she interprets your actions into his own view of the world.

The main authority figure in a pack is called the pack leader. If you think of your own situation, the living arrangement that you share with your dog, you probably automatically think of yourself as the leader of the pack...But does your dog think of you as the leader of the pack? How would you know?

• Dogs don't speak our language 

Dogs don't speak our language, but they are "talking" all of the time. A dog's ability to talk is pretty limited. Dogs do use verbal language like barking, whining and growling, and depending on the tome of these sounds, they can communicate quite a lot. Yet dogs lack the kind of vocal cords that allow speech, so an understanding of spoken words is not instinctive for them. Considering that human speech is indeed a foreign language, dogs are truly amazing in their ability to assign meaning to our words.

Dogs communicate using body language, a form of sign language if you will, and they are all masters of their native "tongue." Your dog "talks" to you through his actions and expressions. The message is sometimes easily understood, as when your dog wags his tail in greeting you when you return home from a trip. Other times, the message is obscure, and you may miss the signs entirely, although another dog would certainly pick up on the message.

Communication is the key...

You communicate with your dog through your own body language as well, but because you are usually doing it unconsciously, your dog is left to apply whatever interpretation works best for him/her. Sometimes your dog's interpretation does not match your intent, and you both end up confused. Nowhere is this more apparent than in potty training, when something that seems so obvious to you is completely missed by your otherwise observant dog friend.

Now that you know these three facts about the nature of dogs -- that dogs are denning animals, they normally live in packs, and they communicate primarily through body language -- we will teach you what you need to know in order to apply this information to the single goal of potty training your dog.

Potty training tips every dog owner should know:

Many things influence potty training. There are many things that influence potty training, not all of them obvious. Before we begin an explanation of how potty training actually happens, we want to identify some things that will impact the training that everyone needs to know about. If you are seeking this information prior to obtaining your puppy or dog, the benefits will begin for you on the very first day that you bring him/her home. But even if your motivation is to find out how to correct potty training problems because things have already gone wrong, knowing this information will be important to resolving your specific situation.

Feed your dog a premium food...

When you bring a puppy into your home, there are certain decisions that you must make about how you will care for him/her. For example, you know you are going to have to feed your puppy, so you need to decide what to feed him/her. Believe it or not, your choice of food can have a big impact on potty training. A good quality premium food is your best choice for many reasons. Premium foods provide the best nutrition, therefore, your puppy will be as healthy as he can be. Premium foods are more digestible than many lower priced foods, meaning your puppy will have smaller stool volume because less of the food is passed out as waste. Fewer, smaller stools mean fewer opportunities for mistakes, more predictable elimination needs, and easier clean-up. Therefore, pick the best quality premium food you can find, and stick with it.

Avoid sudden changes in diet...

Sudden changes in diet should be avoided if possible, as rapid diet changes can cause digestive upset at a time when you are trying to establish predictability. Sometimes the breeder or shelter where you get your puppy will let you know what they have been feeding your puppy and possibly send home a sample for you to take home to avoid making your puppy get used to a new family and a new diet all in the same day. If the food your puppy was eating before you brought him/her home is not what you plan to feed for the long haul, then transition to the new food by adding small amounts to the new food, gradually increasing the new and decreasing the old over several days. when you are feeding the best diet you can, don't change it, unless you are instructed to do so by your veterinarian.

If you already have a dog and your situation is not one of getting a new puppy, your dog will still benefit from the excellent nutrition and digestibility of a premium food. Premium diets are health food for dogs. but just as with a new puppy, any changes in diet should be gradual whenever possible, or digestive upset may occur. If you can, avoid changing your dog's diet while  working on potty training, so your dog's elimination needs will remain predictable.

Don't feed table food...

A few words about feeding your dog the same things you eat. We don't recommend it. A tiny tidbit from your perspective is large portion to a small puppy. Make his life (and yours) easier and feed him what is good for him. A dog's digestive system is just not designed to handle the same things your is. Don't blame your dog when he has potty training setbacks because you shared your Swedish meatballs.

When to feed...

The pack leader eats first. There is another reason not to feed your dog the same things that you eat, or even at the same time that you eat. It gets back to the pack behavior we mentioned earlier. In dog society, dogs of higher status (pack leaders) eat first, and dogs of higher status eat the "best." This is really difficult for us to relate to, because most of us truly love our dogs and look on them as members of our family. We teach our children that fairness and equality are good, and that sharing is important. But in the dog's instinctive understanding of the world, when one pack member allows another  to et with them, or to et first (with the possible exception of a mother feeding her pups), that implies things about which dog has the higher status in the pack. If your dog eats what you eat, you are sharing your status as pack leader. If you allow your dog to eat at the same time that you eat, or before, you are reinforcing the leader role you have allowed your dog to assume. With some dogs, giving them this much status in the pack can lead them to believe it is their right to eliminate on your property to "mark" it. Avoid this potty training error by feeding your dog his own food, and by not feeding him at the same time you eat.

As for when you should feed your puppy, that decision much be based partly on the needs of you puppy, and partly on your own schedule. If you have a very young puppy or a dog with special needs, your veterinarian is the best person to advise you on how frequently you should offer food. One think is certain during the potty training period: You must not allow your puppy to eat "free-choice." Even if you enjoy the convenience of letting your dog eat from a self-feeder (assuming your dog will not over-eat), giving him/her the opportunity to eat whenever they want to will make it almost impossible to potty train. Dogs have what is called gastro-colic reflex that causes them to need to eliminate  shortly after eating, and if he/she is eating whenever they want to, it will be extremely difficult for you to supervise them carefully enough to ensure potty training success. So regardless of your long-term goals for his feeding arrangements, do not allow "free-choice" eating during potty training.

Feed your dog on a schedule...

Whether you feed your dog six times a day or once a day, you need to develop a specific routine to facilitate potty training. Feed your puppy in the same place each time using his own bowl. Give him his food, and allow him 20 minutes to eat it. If he has not eaten all of his food within 20 minutes, take it away and do not offer him more until his next feeding time. If this is difficult for you to do because you don't want to deprive your puppy, remember that  if he was hungry, he would eat. Avoid the temptation to add extras to your puppy's food tot tempt him to eat. Many people do not understand why it is so important to stand firm on this rule. If you fuss over him to get him to eat - if you hand feed him or put tasty tidbits on his food to make it more appealing - you are just showing him that you love him, right? Wrong! You must remember that your dog is a pack animal, and that he will interpret all of your actions through the filter of his own instincts. Paying too much attention to your dog at mealtimes will result in a picky eater who will always wait to see what else you will do for him. Your actions speak volumes about who is in charge, volumes that your dog will interpret the only way he can. (Remember that the pack leader eats firs, the pack leader eats the "best.") Plus, anything you add to his food will likely upset his stomach, creating more potty training challenges for  both of you, and you have to admit that it is better for all involved if you just don't do it.

After you dog eats, he will need to "go"...

Once your puppy has had his dinner, you must be prepared to do your art in the potty training ritual, because after he eats, your puppy will need to eliminate. How long after will vary from one up to another. Some puppies will need to "go" almost immediately, others may not feel the urge for as long as 30 minutes. Start by assuming that your puppy will need to eliminate immediately after eating, so you can avoid accidents caused by not responding quickly enough. Once your puppy is in a routine, you will get a pretty good idea of how long it usually takes  for him to get the job done.

Water your dog on a schedule...

If you allow your puppy to have access to water at all times during the potty training period, you will have little control over his elimination of it. Your puppy should be offered water five or six times a day, and must always be allowed to drink after meals and during and after play. Never refuse water to a thirsty puppy, and always allow him to drink his fill whenever water is offered. The way to regulate water intake is by only allowing your puppy to drink at regular times, not be limiting the amount of water he is offered at any given time.

After your dog drinks, he will need to go...

Similar to the relationship between eating and eliminating, your puppy will need to urinate shortly after drinking. If he has had a lot to drink, as he will need during energetic play, he may need to urinate several times in the next few hours. This is just a reality of life, so be prepared.

If you must leave your puppy alone for extended periods - while you are at work, for example, if you cannot return home to offer him water on your lunch break - leave water out for him while you are gone. Just don't expect him to  hold his bladder that long if he is not at least 5 or 6 months old.

Once your puppy is reliably potty trained, you should allow him access to fresh water at all times.

Exercise and play with your puppy on a regular schedule...

Exercise is important to any dog, and play as exercise can take many forms. But for potty training purposes, play should be somewhat regulated, just like meals and drinks. Save play and exercise until after your puppy eliminates. One reason to schedule play after potty times is because playing itself can stimulate your puppy to eliminate. If he hasn't had a chance to take care of business  before he starts in on a game, he might just stop without warning in the middle of the game, and you may not have  time to respond fast enough to get him to the right spot. Also, as he learns the routine and knows that the games won't begin until he is "done," he will be motivated to do what you want so he can get what he wants.

Never play with your puppy in the precise area where you want him to eliminate. If toilet spots are reserved for that purpose only, your puppy will not be confused about what you want him to do when you take him there.

Getting started on potty training...

There are two important questions to answer before you begin potty training. The first question is:

Where do you want your puppy to eliminate?

Outdoors only, I will walk him every time he needs to go out.

Outdoors primarily, but there will be times when I cannot walk him.

Indoors only.

How you answer this question will have a large influence on how you answer the next question, which is:

Where do you want your puppy to live all of the time that you cannot supervise him?

For many dog owners, the  expectation is that they will allow their dog to roam freely about the house without them eliminating in the home or destroying items in it. This goal is attainable in most circumstances, but it is unrealistic to expect to start there. Any parent of a young child certainly has an expectation that one day their baby will be potty trained, but the child is not born that way. And certainly no one would allow a small child to wander unsupervised about the home all of the time with unrestrained access to dangerous temptations. Children are taught over a period of time that certain items are off limits to them, and certain bodily functions have an appropriate time and place. Your puppy can learn these rules too. His natural tendency as a denning animal will work in your favor.

Confining your puppy is not cruel...

In order to teach your puppy not to soil your large "den" - your home - he must first learn not to soil a much smaller, puppy-safe area, the place where he will live all of the time that you cannot directly supervise  him. Confining your puppy is not cruel, and the need to confine him is unavoidable. Small children are often placed  in cribs or playpens when they cannot be completely supervised. Sometimes children cry for a time when first placed in a restraining environment. The good part is, they soon learn to tolerate it, and often come to enjoy the alone times in their safe place. Similar to a child, your puppy may at first protest his confinement. But understanding the need to teach him to adjust to his living arrangement, and knowing that you are providing him with a comfortable environment, will help you resist the urge to "rescue" him when he cries.

Create a puppy-safe zone...

Creating a puppy-safe zone poses some challenges, but there are several ways to do it that work quite well. Later on, we will talk specifically about three different types of living quarters that you might consider for your pup. There are other ways to create an appropriate environment, but the training methods used for these three types of puppy-safe room; and the puppy playpen (including "paper"training and why we don't recommend newspaper). Whether you choose just one of these techniques, or a combination of them, you will have the information you need to successfully potty train your pup.

Potty training: Essential information...

Your puppy was born with a natural desire to keep his living area clean. He will not be able to demonstrate this tendency until he understands the difference between his living area and his toilet area. Whether you are planning to have him eliminate indoors or outdoors, you must teach him the proper place for him to "go."

What triggers a puppy's need to eliminate?

There are certain events that will stimulate a puppy to eliminate. Assume your puppy needs to "go" when:

• After he eats a meal, and sometimes even after eating a treat.
• After he drinks water.
• Whenever he wakes up from sleeping.
• First ting in the morning, whether he just woke up or  not.
• After (and sometimes during) exercise or play.
• Any other time he acts like he needs to "go."

Puppies usually need to eliminate within 30 minutes of these activities, but you should start your routine by assuming that your puppy will need to "go" almost immediately, thereby avoiding potty training mistakes by not getting him to the right spot soon enough. Before long, you will recognize his individual tendencies and be able to time it pretty well.

Ways your puppy tells you he needs to "go"...

Watch your puppy's body language. There are certain ways your puppy will "tell" you that he needs to "go." At first, the signs might be hard to spot, so watch your  puppy carefully. Body language can be subtle, but observing him closely just before he actually "goes" will help you learn after a few times what to watch for from your particular dog. Puppies do not all use exactly the same body language, but here are some common behaviors dogs use that signal they are about to eliminate:

• Sniffing, as though searching for "the spot." (Remember that puppies have a natural tendency to eliminate away from the den. One way that developing puppies learn where "the spot" is located is by scenting where other dogs in the pack, including themselves, have "gone" before.)
• Circling
• Arching the back
• Most obvious, squatting

Teaching your puppy where to "go" outside...

Each time your puppy experiences one of the events that triggers his need to eliminate (eating, drinking, waking, play or removal from confined area), take him to the designated "spot." How you get him there will depend on whether he can "hold it" long enough to get to the spot if he walks on his own, or if you need to carry him. Young puppies (under 8-10 weeks) or very small puppies (toy breeds for example) may not be able to cover  the distance fast enough to be allowed to walk on their own, and should be carried. Otherwise, the best way to get your puppy to his spot is to put  his collar and leash on him, and lead him there. He needs to experience how to actually navigate the route to the spot, and will learn this much faster by walking on his own. If he can't make it though, or you aren't sure, carry him first to avoid mistakes.

Take your puppy to the right spot...

Even if you have a fenced yard, don't just push him out the door and expect him to figure out what you want. Do take your puppy to the toilet spot, or he will be left with the impression that your entire yard is his toilet. Additionally, unless you are watching so you will know when he is "done," he may wait until he gets back inside where he feels more secure, and you will have a mess to clean up.

Use the same path...

Use the same path to "the spot" every time, including going out the same door. Don't throw him a curve by taking him via the many scenic routes. (If you have a dog door that you will expect him to use later on, save that step until after he is potty trained. During this initial phase,, it is best to keep it simple. We'll tell you how to introduce the dog door a little later.)

Don't distract him...

Lead him (or carry him) to the spot, then wait quietly. Your part in this is very important, because he will read your body language carefully. If you play with him, he will think the purpose of the walk is play. don't be impatient or annoyed, because he will pick up on that, and you could  end up with a puppy who actually avoids eliminating in front of you because he is intimidated by your mood.

Praise your puppy for going in the correct spot...

Choose a word or phrase that you will use to tell him the purpose of the walk, such as "go potty," and softly repeat it while you wait. Once he begins eliminating, praise him softly, but not exuberantly so you do not  distract him. When he is finished, praise him all you want and give him a treat. Then lead him away from "the spot" and back in the same door you exited. If you play with him outside afterward, take him to another area in the yard.

Soon he will go to the door on his own...

If you take your puppy out to eliminate after each of the triggering events, and any other time when he displays any of the body language signals that tell you he is needing to "go" (dedicated sniffing, circling, arching back, squatting), soon he will begin to understand where the toilet area is. He will start walking toward the door on his own when he needs to go, so be watching for this and take him out when he does. Add walking toward the door to your list of body language signals to  watch for.

*The following steps are only for those situations where your puppy has a safe, securely fenced yard that is appropriate for him to  wander in unattended.

When your puppy starts walking toward the door to let you know he needs to go out, you can begin taking him out without his leash. The goal is to eventually get him to go to the toilet area on his own when you let him out, but as will all training, you have to teach in smaller steps.

Carry the leash with you in case you need it, but try getting him to follow you by offering him a treat. Using the word or phrase that you have chosen as a cue to tell him what the walk is for, such as "let's go potty," see if he will follow you all of the way to "the spot." If he does, give him the treat and praise him. If he will not, hook on his leash and lead him. Keep trying to  get him to follow you without the leash each time you go out. Eventually he will walk all of the way with you off leash.

When he will reliably follow you every time to the correct spot without the leash, stop just short of "the spot," tell him what he is there for ("go potty"), and see if he will go the rest of the way on his own. If he will not, walk with him. Don't let him stop short of the correct spot to eliminate. Eventually he will catch on and go the rest of the way himself. Wait until he finishes eliminating in the right spot, then praise him. Work on this until he will always goes the rest of the way on his own when you stop a short distance away, then gradually increase the distance. Don't let him get lazy -- made sure he goes all of the way out there. Walk with him from time to time if you have to.

Keep increasing the distance that he walks on his own until he demonstrates his understanding of where he is to "go" by walking all of the way to the spot while you stand by the door. Getting to this point may take many days, even weeks, so do not expect too much too soon. Your puppy's own motivation and maturity levels will dictate how quickly he can learn these exercises. When he is reliable with you standing just outside the door, let him into the yard while you remain inside.  As he walks out, use his cue word or phrase ("go potty"). Make sure you can see him, and be prepared to go out if he gets distressed and forgets what he is supposed to do. With practice, you will have a dog who goes to the door when he needs to go out, and uses only a specified area in your yard as his elimination spot.

Introducing the doggy door...

Dog doors are a wonderful convenience for many owners. Dog doors take the worry out of leaving your dog in the house for a l longer period of time than he can wait to eliminate. Once he is reliably potty trained, your dog can use the dog door to "walk" himself.

Get a friend to help if you can. If your puppy has never used the dog door before, the best way to introduce it to him is with some help from a friend or family member. Get your helper to keep your puppy near the dog door inside the house, while you go outside and lift the flap. Call your puppy enthusiastically, and use treats to tempt him through the opening while you hold the flap out of the way. He may come bounding out to you without hesitation, or he may be greatly concerned about this new hole in the wall. Once he is used to the idea of a new opening in the den, and has practiced going in and out while you hold the flap, move the flap so that it gently touches his back when he goes through. When he gets used to the new sensation, close the flap and call him. If he doesn't walk right through, move the flap an inch or two with your fingers so he can see you, praising and encouraging him as he attempts to reach you. Most dogs learn to use a dog door in one quick session, but don't be discouraged if it takes more time than that. Just keep trying until he gets it.

When your puppy is using his dog door confidently, you still need to teach him to associate its use with going outside to eliminate. This part is easy, if you have followed the previous steps.

When it is time to take your puppy out to eliminate, go outside, but leave your puppy inside. As you close the door, use his command phrase that tells him it is time to go out. He may come  bounding through the dog door with no further prompting needed. If he doesn't, go to the dog door and call him. (If he doesn't come right out, don't wait too long to go in and get him You might have a mess to clean up if he can't wait until he has figured out what to do.) When he comes through, repeat the command phrase. If you need to, walk out with him tot the spot. Continue these steps until he always goes out through the dog door when you use the command phrase and walk outside through the conventional door.

Soon he will be going to the right spot on his own...

The next goal, of course, is to get him to go out the dog door and take care of business on his own whenever he needs to. He may still require your help in understanding that this is the expectation. Proceed to this step by taking him to the dog door and using his command phrase. He may not understand that you want him to go outside without you, so if he doesn't go out, walk toward the door as you would have in the previous step. Repeat the command phrase. Praise his efforts if he moves toward the dog door while you are still inside.  Wait to see if he will go on out. If he does, he may come right back in when you don't show up. Keep encouraging him to "go potty" without you, and watch him to make sure he does. You may have to go back to the previous step and walk outside  with him for a while before he learns that he can go on his own, but keep working at it  and he will eventually understand.

"Paper" Training:  

Teach your dog to "go" inside...

Paper training is not the same old routine. There are many reasons why an owner may need to teach their dog to eliminate in a specific area indoors. Some situations might be temporary, as in the case of a dog who requires surgery and must be confined for restricted movement during recovery. Sometimes the need might be seasonal, if the owner  lives in an area that receives a great deal of snow in the winter, and their dog is very small or elderly. More permanent situations would include someone who lives in a high-rise apartment  and would find it impossible to get their puppy outdoors quickly enough every time he needs to go. These situations do not mean that you can't own a dog, you just have to find a different way to handle the elimination question. We also recommend "paper" training for anyone who is using a kennel  as their primary form of confinement, for those times when you will have to leave your puppy confined for a longer period  of time than he can wait to eliminate. Providing him with a secondary living area and giving him an appropriate place to relieve himself  can save you from experiencing potty training problems down the road.

Just as dogs can be taught  to go outdoors in a certain area, they can easily learn that there is an appropriate spot for this  function indoors. Most people have traditionally done this through "paper" training, teaching  the dog to eliminate on newspaper. The process you will learn form this course is  similar to paper training, but we do not recommend using newspaper, for a number of reasons. Newspaper, although inexpensive and easy to come by, is difficult to pick up when wet or soiled; will not protect carpets or floors from leaks, stains and odors; may actually cause stains from smudged ink and could actually teach your dog to eliminate in inappropriate areas of your  home if he finds the newspaper lying somewhere other than his designated spot (in you bedroom or on your favorite chair for example).

Potty training pads  are better than newspaper. There are several commercially made  potty training pads created specifically for this purpose. These pads are absorbent; won't fall apart when you pick them up; are lined to prevent leaks, thereby helping to protect your carpets and floors from stains and odors; and some are treated with an attractant (undetectable to humans) to lure your puppy to them when he needs to "go." You do not have to purchase these pads in order to "paper" train you puppy (just substitute "paper" any lace we say "pads"), but they will certainly make the process easier for you to manage.

In the area where  you will confine your puppy while you are teaching him to eliminate on pads (typically a playpen or safe-room), initially cover almost the entire floor  with pads,leaving uncovered only the area with his water bowl and bed. One reason for doing this is because you want the surface of the floor that will define his "living" area to feel different from his "potty" area; you will eventually reduce the covered area to only a small spot. Some  of the commercially made pads contain an attractant, and this will help him get the idea of what the pads are for, but don't expect him to understand right away. If you are using newspaper, or pads that do not contain an attractant, it will help to apply an attractant to the newspaper in the spot you want him to use.

**To be continued**

 

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